What's Cookin' - Dill

Published July 3, 2008 in The Spectrum & Daily News

By Kathryn van Roosendaal

Dill always makes me think of summer. All I have to do is brush my hand through the pungent, feathery leaves and I think of potato salad and vinegared cucumbers. I think of big dill pickles sucked on at the amusement park and fish grilling on a cedar plank. My tuna sandwiches – gushy and fragrant from picnic cooler – always have that crunch of kosher dills.

Everyone knows that dill is used to make dill pickles, but it never ceases to amaze me how little it is used elsewhere. The strong, aromatic seeds can be used to pickle more than just cucumbers and they add a pleasant counterpoint to the sulfur in the brassicas: broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage, to name a few. It can also be ground up into apple pies – although it should be used sparingly – or in flavored butters, cakes and breads. The milder flower heads can be used anywhere the seeds are for a fresher taste. The leaves are my favorite, though. They still have that dill taste but they are mild and fresh. I like to sprinkle the fresh leaves liberally in the aforementioned potato salad, egg salad, omelets, cheese balls and, most of all, fish dishes.

Dill likes rich, well-drained soil in a protected spot. It enjoys full sun in most places, but here it Southern Utah it benefits from some afternoon shade. It doesn’t transplant well so sow the seeds in place and don’t plant it next to the fennel. The two plants are closely related and they will cross-pollinate, muddling the flavors of both. Dill can be grown indoors so you have a stash on hand year-round.

Young leaves can be gathered whenever they are needed. Gather only what you need, since dill doesn’t hold much flavor when it is dried. The flowering tops can be collected when the fruits are just starting to form. To gather the seeds, wait until the flower head turns brown, then hang the whole plant upside down over a cloth.

Easy Pickles

You can pickle just about anything, although the most common in America is cucumbers. This recipe is written for cucumbers, but you can substitute bite-sized pieces of cauliflower or broccoli.

2 1/2 pounds small cucumbers

2 cloves of garlic

2 dill flower heads with leaves

1/3 cup coarse salt

6 peppercorns

1 cup white wine vinegar

3 cups water

Scrub the cucumbers and soak overnight in salted cold water. Drain. Place 1 clove of garlic and a dill flower in each of two sterilized quart jars. Pack the cucumbers into the jars, either whole or sliced lengthwise. Place the salt, peppercorns, vinegar and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour over the cucumbers. Seal and label. Store in a cool place for at least 6 weeks before using. Makes 2 quarts.

Old-fashioned Potato Salad

There are a multitude of potato salad recipes out there, each one “the best.” This is an old-fashioned recipe that has a good, fresh taste to it. It makes a good starting point for developing your own “best” potato salad.

4 medium russet potatoes

1 tablespoon chopped onion

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 tablespoon chopped chives

1 flowering head of dill, finely chopped OR 1 teaspoon dill seed

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon cream or plain yogurt

salt and pepper, to taste

Boil the potatoes in their skins until tender. Cool and slice. Sprinkle the potatoes with the onion, parsley, chives and dill. Blend the mayonnaise and cream or yogurt and season with the salt and pepper. Add to the potato mixture and stir gently. Refrigerate for a few hours to let the flavors mingle. Serves 4.