What's Cookin' - Tarragon

Published May 28, 2008 in The Spectrum & Daily News

By Kathryn van Roosendaal

Tarragon is a rich, spicy herb that is used extensively in French cooking but for some reason has never really caught on in America. I have no idea why. I use it quite a bit, almost as much as I do basil.

Estragon, as it is called in French, has a sharp, almost fiery taste, which is probably how it got its name – estragon is French for “dragon” and its Latin name is dracunculus, which means “little dragon.” The peppery initial flavor then fades to a milder anise taste, adding depth to any dish it is thrown into. It is wonderful in any kind of egg dish, whether it is simple scrambled eggs or a fancy frittata. It is also great in cream- or egg-based sauces or in salad dressings or mild cheeses. I use it a lot with fish and chicken dishes and occasionally in breads or biscuits. Unfortunately its unique taste is mostly lost when the leaves are dried, which is probably why most cooks don’t bother with it. You have to grow it fresh to get its real benefits.

Tarragon is rather easy to grow, however. It loves a sunny, sheltered spot with rich, dry soil, so it grows rather well in Southern Utah. It needs to be mulched during the winter and divided every three years or so to keep the plant strong, but that’s about all the attention it needs. You can also grow it indoors in a pot and enjoy its warm scent when the sun hits the leaves. Trim off leaves as you need them or harvest the top two-thirds of the plant in late summer and freeze them for later.

Tarragon Butter

Use this tasty butter on bread, fish, eggs, chicken, anything. You can also substitute cream cheese for the butter for a tasty cheese ball.

1 to 1 1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves

8 ounces butter, slightly softened

juice of one lemon

salt & pepper, to taste

Beat the tarragon into the butter. Then mix in the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Mix until smooth. Chill, shaping in a mold if desired.

Tarragon Stuffed Mushrooms

I have always liked fried mushrooms and these ones are just divine. Make sure the oil is good and hot or the ‘shrooms will come out greasy instead of crispy.

1 pound large button mushrooms

3 cups fresh bread crumbs

2 cloves of garlic, crushed

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves

2 eggs

salt & pepper

1 1/2 cups dried bread crumbs

cooking oil

Wipe the mushrooms clean and carefully remove the stalks. Finely chop the stalks and set aside. Place the fresh bread crumbs in a bowl and add the garlic and onion. Stir in the tarragon, one of the eggs, salt and pepper and the mushroom stalks. Mix together to form a soft stuffing. Divide the stuffing between the mushroom caps, pressing in well. Beat the remaining egg in a dish and put the dried bread crumbs in a dish next to it. Dip each mushroom in the egg, then coat with the bread crumbs, making sure they are evenly coated. Heat about 4 cups of oil in a heavy frying pan. Deep fry the mushrooms for 4 minutes or until crispy on the outside. Drain and serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.