What's Cookin' - Lemon Balm

Published August 20, 2008 in The Spectrum & Daily News

By Kathryn van Roosendaal

For some reason lemon balm is not a common culinary herb, which I’ve never understood. It has a delightful light lemon scent – and a corresponding light lemon taste – with just enough tang to it to make it fun. It was called Melissa, “Heart’s Delight,” by the ancient Greeks for its uplifting flavor and it was sacred to Diana in Rome. Tea made of lemon balm mixed with honey was said to be an elixir of youth. Despite this you will never find it in the grocery store. Fortunately it is easy enough to grow your own.

Lemon balm is most commonly used in beverages. It makes a light, refreshing tea on its own or leaves can be added to India or China tea to add a subtle flavor. Fresh leaves are floated in wine cups or punches or are frozen into ice cubes and put in water, punch, wine or iced tea.

But this wonderful herb is also great in food. Think of anything you would flavor with lemon and you have a dish for lemon balm. The flavor is gentler than lemon, though, and it doesn’t stand up well against strong herbs such as garlic, basil or oregano. It is champion with dill, tarragon and parsley or used on its own to flavor a white sauce or mayonnaise, especially if it will be used with fish. It adds a pleasant lemony taste to cabbage dishes such as sauerkraut or coleslaw and adds a rich flavor to chicken, pork or lamb. What’s more, it also easily makes the shift to sweet dishes such as fruit salads, jellies and custards.

Lemon balm is a pretty plant with scalloped leaves and pale yellow or blue flowers from summer to autumn. It is a perennial so it will come back year after year and it grows to three feet high. It likes moist soil and afternoon shade. If the soil is too dry or it gets too much hot sun, the scent and taste becomes harsh. The leaves don’t hold flavor well when dried so it is best to use them fresh. Simply pick the leaves as needed or harvest a bunch when the plant begins to flower and freeze them for later.

Lemon Balm Cheesecake

This dessert has a pleasant lemony taste and a rich, creamy texture. It is also great topped with fruit sauce, especially raspberry.

Pastry:

1 cup flour

pinch of salt

3 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces

water

Filling:

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons honey

12 ounces cream cheese, softened

2 eggs, beaten

6 tablespoons very finely chopped lemon balm leaves

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. For the pastry, sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs. Add enough water make a soft dough. Roll out to about 1/8 inch thick and use to line a 7-inch quiche dish or springform pan. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside. For the filling, beat together the butter, honey and cream cheese until soft and creamy. Beat in the eggs and fold in the lemon balm. Reduce the oven to 350 degrees F. Pour the filling into the pastry. Bake for 45 minutes or until the filling is golden and set. Serve warm or chilled with whipped cream. Serves 6.

Loving Cup

This sweet mixed punch is sure to become a favorite at dinners and get-togethers. If you don’t have any borage – an annual plant with lovely purple flowers and sweet-tasting leaves – you can substitute angelica.

2 lemons

6 sprigs of lemon balm leaves

6 sprigs of borage leaves with flowers

1/2 cup sugar

3 1/2 cups water

1/2 bottle dessert wine

1/2 cup brandy

1 bottle champagne

Borage flowers or lemon balm leaves frozen into ice cubes

Remove the zest from one of the lemons and chop it finely. Peel both lemons and slice thinly. Put the lemon balm, borage, sliced lemon, lemon zest and sugar into a jug. Stir in the water, wine and brandy. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour. Pour into a large punch bowl. Mix in the chilled champagne and add the ice cubes with flowers or leaves.