What's Cookin' - Mustard

Published July 9, 2008 in The Spectrum & Daily News

By Kathryn van Roosendaal

When most people think of mustard they think of that yellow stuff slathered on hotdogs. Of course, there is also the richer Dijon mustard, the strong tasting coarse-ground mustard, sweet honey mustard and Chinese sweet-hot mustard. All of these are sauces and pastes made with the seeds of the mustard plant. But there is much more to mustard than the seeds.

There are actually three types of mustard: Black, brown and white. Black mustard has the strongest flavor and had dark, almost black seeds. It is used in the richer mustards like Dijon. Brown mustard seeds are mellower than black and are used in the basic yellow mustard and other mellower sauces. Many gourmet mustards use a mix of black and brown. White mustard seeds are bitter and are used in pickling brine and as a preservative in some mayonnaises.

The mustard plant is a weedy looking annual that can grow to 8 feet tall and is topped with lovely yellow flowers in mid-summer. The young leaves have a pungent flavor – mustard is in the same family as cabbage and broccoli – and are used in salads. The flowers have a delicate mustard flavor and also can be tossed into a salad or used in sandwiches. They are particularly delicious in cucumber sandwiches. Add a few crushed seeds to soups for a divine flavor. Mustard seeds or mustard paste (homemade or store bought) are a must in any dish containing cheddar cheese; it brings out the best in the cheese’s flavor. And the seeds can be ground and mixed with water or vinegar to make the familiar mustard paste. A word of warning, though: Once you’ve had fresh mustard, you’ll never want that store-bought stuff again.

If you don’t want to go through the trouble of harvesting your own mustard seeds, you can buy them whole or ground. You will still want to grow some plants, though, for the leaves and flowers. Sow a crop every three weeks in a sunny spot and harvest the leaves 8 to 10 days after sowing.

Chicken with Mustard and Thyme

The original recipe was for rabbit, not chicken, but I can rarely get my hands on a decent rabbit these days.

2 tablespoons dry mustard powder

1/4 cup flour

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

salt and pepper, optional

3 fluid ounces water

1 whole chicken, cut up OR 2 pounds chicken thighs

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Mix the mustard, flour and thyme together in a mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper if desired. Gradually add the water, mixing well into a smooth paste. Spread the paste over all the surfaces of the chicken. Arrange the chicken pieces in a greased baking dish. Bake for 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until tender and juices run clear. Serve hot or cold.