What's Cookin' - Anise

Published August 27, 2008 in The Spectrum & Daily News

By Kathryn van Roosendaal

Anise, also known as aniseed, is best known for its small, egg-shaped, licorice-flavored seeds. These seeds were harvested throughout Tuscany by the Romans and were the major spice in mustaceum, a Roman spice cake used to finish feasts. These same seeds were so prized in England that its import was taxed and early settlers carried them across the ocean to grow in North America. Lightly toasted seeds have been chewed for centuries to sweeten the breath after a heavy meal and they are used to flavor a multitude of alcoholic drinks and aperitifs.

Today the seeds are used in a multitude of recipes from across the globe. They are cooked whole or crushed in breads, cakes, pies and confections. They also add a great licorice flavor to pickles, sauces, cheese balls and curries.

Far more than just the seed is edible, though. In fact, the entire plant can be used in a variety of dishes and drinks. The flowers can be mixed into fruit salads or frozen into ice cubes for a punch bowl. The leaves are also good in fruit salads and can be used as a garnish for sweet or savory dishes. The stem and root both add a hint of licorice taste to soups, stews and casseroles.

Anise is grown as an annual in most climates, although it can be grown as a perennial or biennial indoors or outside in tropical areas. The dainty plant loves a sheltered, sunny spot with well-drained, alkaline soil so it grows well here in Southern Utah. The plant is delicate so it doesn’t transplant well. Sow the seeds where you want the plant to grow in late spring or at any time in a pot in a sunny window. The leaves can be plucked as needed. For the seeds, cut the top of the plant off when the seeds begin to turn gray-green at the tips. Wrap the plant in cheese cloth or a paper bag and hang in a dry place. Gather stems and roots in the autumn.

One note for shoppers: The vegetable sold in Southern Utah markets as anise is actually Florence fennel, a completely different plant. They are not interchangeable in recipes.

Anise Pear Compote

I found this compote recipe in a book of Chinese recipes. It has a sweet, exotic taste to it that everyone is sure to love. It also works well with apples or Asian pears.

1/2 cup sugar

3/4 cup water

1/4 teaspoon anise seeds, crushed

1 teaspoon lemon juice

dash of salt

1 1/2 pounds firm ripe pears

1 large orange

1 grapefruit

1/2 cup seedless red grapes

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, water, anise, lemon juice and salt. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer. Peel, quarter and core the pears. Put the pears in the pan with the hot syrup, cover the pan and simmer until the pears are barely tender, about 6 minutes. Allow to cool. Peel the orange and grapefruit and divide into sections. Add the orange and grapefruit sections and the grapes to the pears and gently stir together. Chill before serving. Serves 4.

Anise Pound Cake

This is a rich, spicy cake that works just as well for breakfast or brunch as it does for dessert.

1 cup butter, at room temperature

4 eggs, at room temperature

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon anise seeds, crushed

1 cup sugar

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Mix together the flour, baking powder and anise seeds. In another bowl, beat the butter with an electric mixer for about 30 seconds. Gradually add the sugar to the butter, beating on medium until very light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating 1 minute after each egg and scraping the bowl often. Gradually add the flour mixture to the butter mixture, beating on low until just combined. Pour the batter into a greased and floured 9-inch by 5-inch by 3-inch loaf pan. Bake for 55 to 65 minutes or until a toothpick inserted at the center comes out clean. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes, then remove the cake from the pan. Serve warm or fully cooled with cream cheese frosting or whipped cream. Makes 1 cake.