What's Cookin' - Sweet Bay

Published July 30, 2008 in The Spectrum & Daily News

By Kathryn van Roosendaal

The pungent leaves of the sweet bay tree – also called the bay laurel – ware sacred to the god Apollo in Greek mythology. His temple at Delphi had a roof made of bay leaves and garlands of the branches were worn by poets and athletes as a mark of excellence – such crowns can be seen in much Greek and Roman art. Later, bay leaves were put in the thatching of roofs to protect the home from lightning strikes and to ward off disease.

Where the leaves of the sweet bay tree really shine, though, is in the kitchen. The pungent flavor is popular in French and Mediterranean cooking and it is a key flavoring in many soups, stews and marinades, especially those featuring beef and game meats. Whole leaves are added at the beginning of cooking and are then removed just before serving. The leaves are also added to the water when foods are poached or steamed to add a subtle flavor or they can be stored in the container with rice or flour to add flair to later recipes. For custards and other egg desserts such as bread pudding or rice pudding, boiling a bay leaf in the milk and then removing it brings out the mellow taste of the eggs and enhances the other spices, making the dish absolutely delicious.

Sweet bay is one of the few herbs that is best when used dried. However, the leaves lose flavor after a few days, so it is still beneficial to grow your own. It is an evergreen tree that actually grows pretty well in the St. George area provided you plant it in a place that is protected from the wind. It likes full sun and rich, moist, well-drained soil. Young plants need to be protected from frost and mature trees need to be protected from temperatures below about 5 degrees F. A great way to grow sweet bay is in a large pot or tub. The trees can be pruned into topiary and the pots can be moved indoors or to a sheltered spot during the winter.

Because the bay tree is evergreen, the leaves can be picked any time. Pick a few at a time and dry them. If they aren’t used within a week or two, toss them or scatter them in your cupboards to deter bugs and pick some fresh ones.

Veal with Wine and Sweet Bay

This is one recipe where the bay leaf is crushed instead of left whole and is not removed before serving. This is common with heavy meats; the pungent bay leaf helps remove the gamey taste.

1 tablespoon butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

4 4-ounce veal escalopes

4 dried bay leaves

1 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup light cream

salt and pepper, to taste

Melt the butter in a large frying pan. Add the onion and sauté about 5 minutes or until soft but not brown. Add the veal and crush the bay leaves over the top of them. Turn the veal over and add the wine. Cook uncovered for 5 minutes. Add the cream and stir well. Season with the salt and pepper to taste. Serve with rice. Serves 4.

Beef Broth

This classic broth can be made in bulk and frozen for use later in soups and stews.

4 pounds meaty beef soupbones

3 carrots, cut into large pieces

2 medium onions, cut into large pieces

2 stalks celery with leaves, cut into large pieces

8 sprigs parsley

10 whole black peppercorns

4 whole bay leaves

1 tablespoon dried basil, crushed

1 tablespoon dried thyme, crushed

2 cloves of garlic, halved

1 teaspoon salt

10 cups water

Place the soupbones in a large, shallow roasting pan. Bake at 450 degrees F for 30 minutes or until well browned, turning once. Put the bones in a large stock pot or Dutch oven. Pour 1/2 cup water into the roasting pan and stir, scraping up the crusty bits from the bottom. Add this water to the stock pot. Add all the other ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 3 1/2 hours. Remove the soupbones. Pour the broth through a large sieve or colander lined with cheesecloth. Skim the fat. Store in the fridge for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 6 months. Makes about 8 cups.