What's Cookin' - Rosemary

Published June 26, 2008 in The Spectrum & Daily News

By Kathryn van Roosendaal

Can anyone resist the scent of rosemary? It is deep, tangy and resinous, the lighter cousin of the pine tree and juniper. Rub one tiny needle-like leaf between your fingers and take a whiff – it seems to go straight to your brain, making the synapses fire faster and the blood flow stronger. In fact, rosemary has been prized since ancient times for its ability to cure headaches and enhance memory. I like to keep a sprig on my desk and sniff it every so often during marathon work sessions. It really does work.

Where rosemary really excels, though, is in food. It helps the body digest fats, so it has been used for centuries in the cooking of meat dishes, especially lamb and pork. It is also wonderful in potato dishes and is great in breads and rolls. Try it with cheese dishes, especially those using mild cheeses like Neufchatel or Ricotta. Its rich taste also lends itself well to sweet dishes. Try a dish of rosemary sorbet for a refreshing treat or add a few leaves to your favorite fruit pie or use it to give shortbread or pound cake a whole new taste.

The plant itself looks as beautiful as it smells. It grows to a small evergreen shrub and it makes a great hedge or accent in any garden. What’s more, it loves Southern Utah’s climate. It grows so well here it is used by many landscapers. Those lovely draping bushes in the roundabouts and in front of office buildings downtown? Those are all rosemary. All it needs is well-drained soil and a place where it won’t get too cold during the winter and it is a happy camper.

Since rosemary is an evergreen, you don’t have to harvest more than you need at any given time. If you do feel the need to harvest and store some, rosemary is one of the few herbs that retains its flavor well when dried. Just wash the branches and hang them away from direct sun until they are dried and then store them in an airtight jar. Crush or chop the dried leaves just before using.

Rosemary Sorbet

This is a sweet, refreshing treat that makes a great palate-cleanser after a heavy meal. If you want, you can use an ice cream freezer to finish off the sorbet after the egg white is added.

1/2 cup superfine sugar

1 cup water

1/4 cup fresh rosemary leaves

juice of 1 lemon

1 egg white

Put the sugar and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Chop the rosemary leaves and add to the pan. Cover and remove from the heat. Let stand covered for 20 to 30 minutes. Test for flavor. If the flavor isn’t strong enough, bring to a boil again, remove from heat and let stand another 15 minutes. Strain the liquid and add the lemon juice. Put the mixture in an ice-cube tray and freeze for 2 to 3 hours or until semi frozen. Whisk the egg white until stiff and fold into the mixture. Put in a bowl in the freezer for 3 to 4 hours or until frozen. Serves 4.

Rosemary Cheese Fingers

These make a great bread to go with lamb chops or eat them as a snack.

2 tablespoons butter

2 cups rolled oats

1 1/2 cups grated cheddar cheese

1 egg, beaten

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

pinch of cayenne pepper

salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Melt the butter. Combine the remaining ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix in the butter. Press the mixture into a greased 8-inch square pan. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes. Cut into fingers and serve warm. Makes 12 fingers.