What's Cookin' - Chives

Published June 18, 2008 in The Spectrum & Daily News

By Kathryn van Roosendaal

I love onions – grilled onions, sautéed onions, roasted onions, sweet onions, red onions, scallions, green onions … you get the picture. But sometimes a handful of chopped red onion is a bit much for a recipe and I want something a bit mellower. That’s when I break out the chives.

Chives are a close relative of garlic. They don’t form much of a bulb, but they grow a profusion of green, grass-like tops that are just full of sweet, mild onion flavor. They also grow beautiful pink or mauve flower clusters that are even sweeter and milder but still oniony. What could be better?

If you have tried cooking with freeze-dried chives, you probably don’t think much of this herb. That’s because a lot of the flavor is lost in the drying process. They are at their best when fresh and are decent when frozen. Fortunately they are easy to grow and are evergreen perennials in most of Southern Utah so you can always have a stash of fresh chives on hand. They love sun or partial shade and do best in rich, moist soil, although they will do OK in poor soil. They grow in pretty bunches that look a lot like an ornamental grass and the flowers come on in mid summer. Just cut off some leaves or blossoms as needed and let it go or you can harvest all but the bottom 2 inches of the leaves and freeze them for later.

Chives can be used in any recipe that calls for onions if you want a milder taste. Where they really shine, though, is in fish dishes and cheese dishes. There isn’t a fish out there that doesn’t taste great with some fresh chives. And who ever heard of a cheese ball without chives? Sprinkle some chopped chives in cheese soup, mac & cheese or on a cheese sandwich and taste the difference. Yum!

Cheese Bread

Chives are what give this cheese bread its kick. My favorite cheese to use is sharp cheddar, although it is also good with Parmesan or Monterey jack.

1 ounce dry yeast

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup warm water

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cups whole-wheat flour

pinch of salt

1 cup water, heated to body temperature

2 tablespoons butter

2 1/2 cups grated cheese

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

1 egg, beaten

Put the yeast in a cup and stir in the 1/4 cup water and the sugar. Let stand in a warm place until it is frothy. Combine the flours and the salt in a large mixing bowl. Pour the yeast mixture into the center of the flour and mix together with a knife, adding some of the warm water. Add the rest of the water and knead the dough for 2 minutes. Form the dough into a ball and sprinkle with flour. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until it doubles in size. Knead the dough lightly. Roll into a rectangle and dot with the butter. Fold it into thirds, then roll it out to the same rectangle again. Sprinkle with the cheese and chives to within 1 inch of the edge. Roll up from the short end like a jelly roll. Place seam down in a greased bread pan and score the top in a diamond pattern with a sharp knife. Let rise in a warm place for about 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Brush the loaf with the beaten egg and bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until golden on top. Eat warm. Makes one 2-pound loaf.

Sea Bass with Ginger and Chives

This is one of those recipes that prove that gourmet food doesn’t have to be difficult to make.

2 pound sea bass

salt

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

4 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Put the fish in a pan of boiling salted water, making sure the fish is covered. Simmer for 5 minutes. Drain and arrange the fish on a serving dish. Mix together the soy sauce, oil and ginger and pour over the fish. Sprinkle with the chopped chives. Serve with rice or potatoes. Serves 6.